Iris Noir – Running Low

$599

Iris, whether it be in butter form or the absolute, has a…

Spray Bottle

You can read more about the origins of Iris Noir here, where I talk about the inspiration I drew from the scents I encountered living in Jordan, about how this is my attempt to bottle those fragrant moments: the honeysuckle you smell on the way to the zawiya. The melissa wafting through your kitchen window at sunset, the brewed thyme and orange blossom and rosemary. Pines that line the Roman ruins. The purple sweetness of sumac salad. The Shaykh handing out swipes of jasmine; mureeds asking about that rose he used to wear. And the scent par excellence of Sufis: oud.

This is one of my earliest compositions, and while I want to retain the overall Iris Noir profile, I wanted to make this edition the most decked-out one to date.

To start with, you’re getting a higher overall concentration, which means each spritz gives you a bit more mileage. Then, there are structural additions and tweaks to enhance the depth and complexity of the composition.

The perfume now features an all-new cast of roses, incorporating our newest, and seriously stunning Afghani rose otto – the same one that’s in Sultan White Rose. It’s one of the freshest roses I’ve ever smelled, and because it’s also beautifully diffusive, the iris-peach-berry top notes are lifted more, while also bringing the oud more to the forefront.

The first edition actually contained mostly rose absolutes, while this one contains mostly ottos, so there’s quite a difference in how the accompanying aromatics are affected by the brighter, golden-zesty tenor of otto’s cleaner pitch (compared to the darker, earthier tone of the absolutes).

Likewise, there’s a new ensemble of jasmine and aged sandalwood, but the major change comes in the form of an iris-loving oud duo…

Iris, whether it be in butter form or the absolute, has a distinct powderiness. It’s so inherent in the scent it smells like a texture. While Iris Noir’s profile is already replete with this almost-delicious powdery texture, it’s difficult to match the right ouds so that you retain that texture and let the oud become part of it, rather than dominate or get lost in it.

I have two ouds that are right on the money to ooze into the iris and inject their oudiness into it, not over-layer or drown it. Both are basically the scent of pure oud powder, bottled; one Hainan, one Nha Trang. And Iris Noir now contains both.

They smell like you’re standing at the distillery while grinding the oud chips, dust puffing through the bags casting the resinous bliss into the air. It’s one of the most heavenly olfactory experiences you can wish for.

The fusion of Hailam and Guallam creates a powdery accord of orange zest laced with styrax and citrus that not only blends in like a chameleon inside the iris, but also seamlessly oozes into the subtle peach-raspberry-jasmine opening notes, all on wings of rose.

TOP
Peach
Raspberry

HEART
Afghan Rose Otto
Jasmine Grandiflorum
Mimosa

BASE
Wild Hainan Oud
Wild Nha Trang Oud
Aged Sandalwood
Iris

You get everything that makes Iris Noir so regal, now fine-tuned with ouds I didn’t have when I first made it years ago, for an enhanced oudy powderiness that’s soulful and perhaps paints an even truer picture of the scents of the river Jordan, the wadi waterfalls; the Sufis there.

Featured Testimonials…

Dark – Regal – MouthWatering – Musky Drydown – Perfect Fruity Opening – Signature Addictive Iris Note

—Travis H / USA

Reviews of Previous Edition:

Do you have any Iris Noir parfum? At all—anywhere?? Please??? I hope you do understand my desperation!

—Jamshed / UK

Today is my first experience with the new version of Iris Noir. The color of the nameplate is a perfect reflection of this perfume. It evokes the deep, regal hue of purple iris flowers, which immediately come to mind upon the first spray. The opening is not the expected buttery, powdery iris but rather a floral, sweet, and invigorating bouquet. Ensar lists peach and raspberry in the top notes, and while the peach doesn’t stand out distinctly to my nose, the ripe, sweet raspberry is unmistakable.

As the fragrance develops, the powdery characteristic of iris becomes more apparent. However, this is not a dry, dusty, or makeup-like powderiness. Instead, it is silk-like, almost liquid or cream-like in texture. Difficult to describe but deeply enjoyable.

The juicy fruitiness of the top notes lingers for about 30 minutes before transitioning to the heart of the fragrance, where other florals take center stage. Ensar lists rose, jasmine, and mimosa as the primary supporting florals, and to my nose, the rose otto stands out most prominently. This rose is rich, red, and jammy, without any green or earthy undertones, which I appreciate as a fan of jammy rose perfumes. There is a slight hint of jasmine’s indolic charm, but it remains subtle.

Let’s talk about the oud. I am still relatively new to oud, especially Ensar’s creations, which I typically associate with aged, smoky, and traditional profiles. However, the oud in Iris Noir is an entirely different experience. Ensar uses Hainan and Nan Trang ouds in this composition, and what I detect is clean, sweet, and slightly citrusy which is a refreshing and modern take. The Hainan oud lends a soft, musky sweetness. Unfortunately I am not experienced with pure nah trang oil to fully understand what it brings to the composition.

Sandalwood is another key component, adding a delicate creaminess and soft woodiness that reinforces the buttery, powdery iris. It blends well with the oud to create a smooth, cohesive base that enhances the overall composition.

Iris Noir is a kaleidoscope of colors throughout its progression. It opens in dark purple with the iris, shifts to vibrant red with the fruity raspberries, and eventually dries down to an orangish-yellow hue, thanks to the creamy, sweet ouds and sandalwood.

If I were to compare Iris Noir to another Ensar perfume, Crime & Punishment comes to mind. This similarity lies primarily in the juicy raspberry top notes and the overall floral focus. However, Iris Noir stands out as a softer, more delicate creation.

Final verdict:

Iris Noir is a delightful surprise and a refreshing departure from the heavy, smoky, oud-forward perfumes I usually gravitate toward from Ensar. It is a soft, powdery floral perfume that feels genderless. The oud adds a necessary depth, keeping the composition intriguing and satisfying my love for oud. Without the oud, this perfume might not resonate with me as strongly. If you’re seeking an easy to wear iris perfume with depth, character, and a hint of clean, resinous oud, Iris Noir is an excellent choice. However, if you prefer animalic, funky, oud-heavy compositions, this one might not meet your expectations.

—Mackenzie L / Canada

OMG Iris Noir is a thing of beauty, I was blown away with this one. It has a real “regal” feel about it, I could just imagine a very important person from a passed gone era wearing this… What a delightful scent.

—George / UK

The Iris Noir Pure Parfum is a very very nice and special scent with soft animalic touch. I am very convinced and enthusiastic about the fragrance. Thank you for this lovely scent and also for the sample of Purple Sumatra. The Iris Noir attar smells a little bit different to the Iris Noir Pure Parfum on my skin. The attar is more sweet, the Pure Parfum is more adult and luxurious, I think that’s because I like the Pure Parfum more.

—Jasmin / Switzerland

Iris Noir is incredible, it reminds me of the Mut’aaf where the air is thick with fragrance and this silent buzzing. It smells of musk and flowers. It’s spicy and I smell blossom. It reminds of me of the night of Rabi when the air is scented and the moon is hanging so low in the sky, you could reach out and touch it. It smells of the desert night air. Its smells of the old city of Fez on a warm night, walking down the narrow streets. It smells of the Sheikh’s gathering.

—Umm Zaynab / UK

I blind bought the Iris Noir after reading reviews and let me tell you it did not disappoint. It truly is one of the most gorgeous creations on the market, period. I can’t wait for the night to fall as I believe it is a nocturnal creature.

—Denis / Sweden

The scent opening reminds me of Hajar Aswad. The dry down of Borneo Zen. Although you have to search for the Borneo through the cloud of Iris Root. It’s certainly a very sophisticated scent and one I am going to enjoy over a long period of time.

—Shabhi / UK

When I first applied it, I could tell it was very dark and dense but hard to say for me whether I liked it or not until, around 20 mins later, it started to unfold… I remember I was driving at that moment and I had to turn off the radio so I could focus on that magnificent scent opening up to me. It felt like I was in some other dimension almost, in a bubble of pure joy. Scent was heavenly, raw, strong and delightful.

Very well done and beautiful. So far from today’s low standard fragrances.

—Jean-François / Canada

Iris Noir comes off like a vintage perfume, something you might imagine Guerlain made decades ago.

I’d call it a white floral chypre with iris being the centerpiece. It’s creamy and buttery with musk playing a strong role. I also get aromatic spices like oregano, thyme, rosemary and pepper… also some citrus, rose and jasmine, moss, resins and agarwood of course. No aldehydes with Iris Noir being natural, but it has that uplifting feel anyways.

It’s very well blended and difficult to pick out notes so I’m probably wrong on a lot of it, but even so I doubt anyone will be disappointed with Iris Noir, it’s amazing.

—Dave / USA

“Iris noir” es una bomba olfativa, su salida es muy intensa, nunca había olido el Iris en esta forma y con esta potencia, puede llegar a abrumar al ponértelo, pero al cabo de un rato se suaviza, dejando un aroma empolvado, amaderado y a cuero realmente único, que va contigo durante muchas horas, su duración es increíble. No podia perderme esta interpretación literalmente oscura del Iris por “Ensar Oud”.

—Alex / Spain

When I applied it initially I thought it would be the first wrong blind buy with Ensar Oud. “This is too strong, smells good but too strong,” was my initial reaction. A few minutes in, however, it mellowed down and I love the way it develops over time. I made a red eye flight as a result—it has been over 24 hours since I applied Iris Noir! I doubt if anybody else can still smell it, but there is this beautiful scent on my skin that makes me not want to take a shower. Definitely a keeper and will order a second bottle for my strategic reserve.

—Marcel / Singapore

Thank you so much for Iris Noir — takes me back 50 years. This is a kind of root I have grown up with although not black, but very dark violet. My grandpa had a small area beneath the red and blackcurrant bush where he grew a couple of iris plants, and took care quite a lot. Where I live now, we only have Iris siberica, a blue-blossomed plant, in some spots, growing wild. I am fond of root fragrances…

—Erhard / Austria

Now this is how a perfume should be.

For a good number of us the note of iris is either irredeemable or just pleasantly boring. Iris Noir changes that game entirely. It opens with a stunning three-dimensional floral. Buried within its base is something strong and potent, indiscernible yet ever present: a gloriously booming woody note.

As the journey goes on, sandalwood and oud announce themselves with a timeless grace alongside the florals. It is almost baffling to the nose how rich and nuanced these notes are. Words like ‘sweet’, ‘floral’, and ‘woody’ can be used but they don’t serve to do the experience justice.

Ethereal and rich this sparkles on the nose. Vibrant, sharp notes dancing alongside smooth and relaxed ones. There is a stunning series of contrasts within this experience: light and dark. Tropical and spiritual. Introverted and exploding outwards, reaching into the cosmos. It is as bright as either sunlight or starlight, depending on your mood. Fun yet deeply soulful. It plays on the skin like a beautiful Zen ko-an: unable to be understood by the intellect but able to be fully experienced beneath the words.

This really is magnificent.

—Royce / USA

It is very, very nice. The dry down smells very much like Oud Extraordinaire. I have worn Dior Homme Intense and Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, and was expecting to smell an Iris comparable to those. But this is different. I like it.

—Steve / USA

So, I got another bottle while it’s on sale… I almost never do this and it may be the 3rd time or so I’ve ever bought more of anything.

Why? Because it’s that good It’s a true 5-star fragrance, and very few exist in the world. From what I’ve tried less than .1% are in this league. Some of the things that make the difference:

It has balance from beginning to end, and is great all the way through.
It’s not too loud and not too soft, it doesn’t project in a way that’s impossible to escape but instead has a sillage that makes it intriguing.
It’s suitable for almost every occasion.
It has a human element to it, an enhancement of body odor but not so close that it’s mistaken for someone who doesn’t shower enough.
It doesn’t lean too much toward the masculine or feminine.
It’s never fatiguing, rather something that could be worn every day.

While there are a lot of excellent fragrances, Iris Noir is a standout and in the top few of anything I’ve ever tried

—Dave / USA