Private Blend: Überoud – SemiBespoke

Private Blend: Blue Yunnan gave the lucky few aficios the signature musk perfume with a unique Yunnanese twist that was blueberry jam marinated with mandarin rind. The lush, sour citrus-cherry twang of vintage Yunnan, peppered with Nha Trang kinam – all in a single bottle of perfume!

The current Überoud edition takes things Eastward, binging on the dieselicious  soil of Brunei’s jungles into full zoom, with a shot of Beccariana Kynam’s blue-honey facets, further deepened by the blues of New Guinea’s sickest resined Gyrinops (a la Sultan Ahmet & Mustafa), with an added dose of Blue Lotus crowning the aquatic resin-laden cocktail and doing away entirely with the orange hues of our Hainanese/Yunnanese iterations of the cult fragrance.

The result is a musk perfume that’s oudier blue than Blue Kalbar, muskier than Mystical Lotus (albeit not lotusier), polished with a resinous coolness that shines through kinamic wafts you’d only expect to experience in the likes of Kyara de Kalbar, Blue Brunei, and Brunei Kynam.

This is the Bluest of Private Blend iterations to date (it has been religiously Orange in all editions thus far – yes, even the Blue Yunnan one) – a medicinal cool-bitter-blue Bruneian Beccariana King-Super oud wood drenched in Blue Lotus medley, steeped in the most delicious musk cocktail the world has sipped.

It is the coming to life of perfumes like this that make me shiver at the thought of selling out of oils like Kyara de Kalbar, Blue Brunei, and the New Guinea Oriscent sinker oils. Some people think this is a good way to sell expensive oils. I know it’s the only way to make perfumes of this caliber.

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