Musc Gardénia: Berke Khan

EO Parfums have been quite counter-culture compared to, say, traditional French perfumes. Some may

Often, most of the work that goes into producing the world’s most expensive perfumes is done by jewelers, not perfumers. But when it comes to perfumes judged on olfactory merit instead of how many carats are in the cap, then you see recurring actors: Tuberose, orange blossom, vanilla, jasmine…

You can probably think of one or two more – I’d add blue lotus and frangipani to the list, but who actually dares to use these?

Imagine those precious florals, then add South African rosemary and blue cypress. A spread of honey sprinkled with pink peppercorn lacquered with mimosa and yes… blue lotus and frangipani – to give the fragrance that pollen-powdery effect like you’re smelling the scent of wildflowers from afar. The latter duo especially must be among the most beautiful fragrances a person can ever smell.

EO Parfums have been quite counter-culture compared to, say, traditional French perfumes. Some may describe them as rugged, “tough” even.

So it might surprise you to take your first spritz of Musc Gardénia and think it smells… lovely.

When you visit a perfume boutique, this would be taken from the ‘Floral’ section.

… But like the natural rendition of those fresh-floral tones you always wanted. The difference is in the thickness, the richness, the consistency of the fragrance you’re smelling this time. Not just “fresh” but wholesome, not just “floral” but butter-creamy frangi-mimosa-lotus delicious. And that pollen profile………

To further this Berke Khan edition’s musky insanity, we thought a Sri Lankan oud would mark an exciting departure.

So, we went full-out wall patta for this edition and featured a chord of Suriranka Senkoh laced with Nangha Parbat and a touch of the Sultan’s Terengganu oil that was featured in Oud Sultani: Terengganu to give the Berke Khan’s leathery armor that heavenly blue halo, contrasting between the aquatic mineralness of walla’s woody-fruity muskiness and the leathery blueberry Purple Kinam nuances of the Terengganu grandmother trees.

I’m using such insane quality oud in Musc Gardénia to make this as luxurious an oud-floral perfume as you could wish for.

Another facet that sets this Berke Heritage edition apart from the previous semi-bespoke editions is that this one features not only a different musk carrier, but an added shot of it!

You’ve now got the diffusive wafts of ancient Mongolian musk carrying the Silani-laced white petals, the luscious lotus sweetened by this unique musk’s chocolate-earthy scent, and every other aromatic in here enhanced in ways nothing else could.

Top Notes:
Honey, Rosemary, Pink Pepper

Heart Notes:
Orange Blossom, Jasmine
Frangipani, Blue Cypress
Blue Lotus, Mimosa

Base Notes:
Suriranka
Nanga Parbat
Terengganu SQ
Kashmiri Musk
Sri Lankan Sandalwood

Carrier:
Mongolian Musk SQ

From using pretty much the entire line-up of those extracts you’d read about in articles about the world’s most extravagant perfume ingredients to one so precious none of those authors ever heard of it, to an ancient carrier no other perfume currently in existence has used, this Berke edition of Musc Gardénia is a musklorious pure parfum. Spray cautiously… a little goes a long way!

Featured Testimonials…

Musc Gardenia Berke Khan edition opens with a delightful spiced honey and musc melange that is incredibly enjoyable. The dense sweetness of the honey, mixed with the soft, animalic mucs and spices is a comforting, and calming sensation. The opening is immediately supported by a cast of delicate florals. It wouldn’t be a gardenia without the florals. Ensar lists orange blossom, jasmine, frangipani, blue cypress, blue lotus and mimosa. While I cannot pick out individual florals, the bouquet is soft and creamy, and creates a wonderful balance for the mongolian musc to do its thing.

The base is jam packed with quality ingredients such as Suriranka, Terengganu SQ oud, Kashmiri musc and sandalwood. All are supporting characters for the musc and florals but add an incredible deep opulence to the composition. There is absolutely nothing funky or off putting in the entire composition. The ouds compliment the musc and florals perfectly, and every sniff presents something new and complex.

The mongolian musc (which is used as the carrier!) is ultimately the star of the show. Musc is presnet from the start all the way to the end (which is forever by the way, as longevity is incredible with this one). Mongolian musc is a wonderful pairing for this composition as it adds a dense, earthy almost chocolatey vibe, that works well with the honey, spices and ouds. I ended up getting a 50ml bottle which will likely outlive me as only a couple sprays are needed.

I find Musc Gardenia Berke Khan to be quite enjoyable, and if sprayed conservatively, would even be enjoyable to those that dislike animalic and musc heavy fragrances. While musc is the star of the show, the honey, florals, ouds and sandalwood all work together in balancing creating a surprisingly balanced perfume.

—Mackenzie L / Canada

Today was a good Friday, only had to work a half day in clinic!! When I arrived home, it quickly turned into a great day!! Our Musc Gardenia arrived from Jesse Graham of Australia.

We opened the package and Madame’Oud quickly gained control of the bottle and sprayed her wrists and neck…..WOW.

Our olfactory senses were overwhelmed, in a beautiful and unforgetful way.

Those top notes of the pink pepper and sweet honey quickly gave way to the beastly MONGOLIAN MUSC. As that musc started to rise up, it brought along with it all the florals that created this GORGEOUS GARDENIA GOODNESS.

The creamy jasmine, the sultry fragipani and that sexy blue lotus all blended with the Musc and Oud.

Another beautiful creation from EO and with Madame’Oud wearing Musc Gardenia, this great Friday afternoon is gonna turn into a fantastic Friday night!!! Thank you Ensar Oud for making all us OUDDICTS and MUSCANIACS happy!

—Jason M / USA

Musc Gardénia: Berke Khan Edition

Musc Gardénia Berke Khan – Initial Impression

Tahitan Gardenia was a killer release, out of over a hundred of different perfumes in my collection, TG was the only one perfume I took with me to a 3 days 2 nights getaway retreat over the weekend, there aren’t many that could beat TG in versatility, it’s beautiful, regal, and very uplifting. For the first time, I was getting a good dose of tropical fruitiness undertone, it isn’t a basket full of fruits or anything like that, but a very delicious and mouth-watering fruity goodness teasing in the background. I wore TG day and night, 3 days in a row, it always put a big smile on my face EVERY SINGLE TIME.

Hard to imagine I almost traded TG away after just 2 wearings, I didn’t fall in love with it until my 5th and 6th wearing, so glad I kept this gem around and now I can’t get enough of it. Musk Gardenia has a stellar track record of being one of the best releases from EO, for good reason. When the new Berke edition is announced, and with many different sizes available….how could I resist? I can’t. Musk Gardenia is too lovely of a composition to pass up. Now, comparing MGB to TG side by side, Ensar couldn’t have put it better: MGB is as much of a flanker to TG as Tibetan Musk is to EO2.

MGB opens with a thick and heavy punch of chocolatey musk, in my face! seems like at least 3x muskier than TG and all other Musc Gardenia combined. EO could have easily named this Mongolian Gardenia and it would have been a suitable name for it. The musk isn’t as animalic as Tibetan Musk or EO2 for instance, but it has about the same intensity in the opening. Then came a big dose of Ouds, ouds, and more ouds, nothing medicinal or offputting, no fermented/soaked funk here either, they’re incorporated beautifully, at least 2~3x Oudier than TG!

Other than Musk and Ouds, there are some spices up top, I picked up a touch of Pink pepper for just a bit of extra kick. The floral accord here in MGB also seems thicker and jammier than TG and White Kinam editions, with Frangipani and Jasmine stood out a bit more, backed by the watery and intoxicating Blue Lotus. MGB isn’t as fruity as TG but there are still some fruits in here too! Seems like the fruits came from the combination of Ouds naturally. Those who owned OST and are intimate with that release WILL recognize a purple-type fruit in MGB here, thanks to the Terengganu SQ.

To my nose, MGB went through a revolution update, you’ll smell something familiar BUT completely new at the same time. All I could think of is, just imagine having three musketeers decided to get together, between Musc Gardenia, Oud Sultani Terengganu, and Tibetan Musk joined force, and you’ll get an idea how MGB may smell like, with Gardenia leading the charge obviously. That’s what I perceived on first wearing.

Surprisingly, I didn’t get completely nose blind to the Mongolian musk here either (which I previously did in Chypre Sultan), the chocolatey musk in MGB come and go (borderline anosmia for me) and whenever it came back, it sure penetrated deep behind my skull, excellent tenacity, the Mongolian musk went balls deep here in MGB.

After 30min, the musky scent bubble continues to envelop me, the floral accords turn velvety with a hint of dustiness (some would perceive as a bit powdery), carrying along the jammy purplish oudy fruits. 3hr later, the floral became more buttery and creamier, the Gardenia remain the centerpiece while musk and ouds are still going nicely. Due to the much heavier Musk and Ouds in MGB, TG still reigns supreme in versatility as it is less challenging to the unfamiliars(those who never smell real ouds and musk), and TG is definitely more mass appealing in direct comparison.

But all Musk fan, Oud fan, MG fan….try to get a sample or decant and give it a sniff, I think you’ll enjoy it. I also think this new MGB leans more masculine than TG, certainly a lot bolder, muskier, and oudier, with that said, if female fans could rock Tibetan Musk, OST, and MG, then I don’t see why can’t you rock MGB too! Not to mention, this has absolutely ZERO Mint in it, not even a trace, at least I couldn’t perceive any of it.

Just when I thought TG was the bomb, and this new MGB take Gardenia to a whole new level, this is a VERY different beast entirely, it’s a banger release and my type of jam….I’m going to have to check my budget to see if I could squeeze in a backup bottle of this gem, if not I’ll sell something else in my collection to get more of this, 30ml simply ain’t going to cut it!! Well done Ensar Oud I thoroughly enjoy and love this one from the get-go.

Musc Gardénia Berke Khan – Follow Up

Wearing the new MG the 2nd time today, two sprays to the upper chest, it exceeded my olfactory sensitivity threshold and triggered my anosmia. This is the type of Musc Gardenia with the capital M. Yesterday wearing with just 1 spray the musk was thick, pronounced, and had lots of oomph, but now I could hardly smell the musk with 2 sprays, the application site is also closer to my nose, the Musk is projecting heavily as my family can smell it just fine from a few feet away, I’m almost choking them out. lol

When Ensar Oud said at the end of the description….“Spray cautiously… a little goes a long way!’ he wasn’t exaggerating or overstating it, this stuff is absolutely nuclear!! The Mongolian musk is a bit of my kryptonite as I’m anosmic only to this variety, not with any other type of musk. The result I’m getting now is hardly a surprise, less is more and I’ll just go back to 1 spray max next time, if I must wear 2 sprays, I probably would have to apply them to my calves or knees.

Not getting a whole lot of spices up top, and with the musk being tuned off, what I’m getting however, is a thicker layer of beautiful floral, it’s creamy, buttery, powdery, with plenty of honey sweetness and a bit of fruit. I’m picking up more Mimosa, Frangipani, and Blue Lotus today. The gardenia accord is so damn gorgeous, it’s being boosted by a hefty dose of juicy purple ouds, very pristine and clean.

I can almost smell the musk, almost, but it keeps being tuned out, the overall scent profile is luxurious and very rich, elegant, alluring, and addictive, with excellent tenacity and density. This release is

….the type of scent that I could see James Bond wearing in his Tuxedo, NOT just any Bond, it has got to be Sean Connery’s.

—Ben W / USA

First off this is unlike any of the past MG’s that I own.

Truly an entirely different composition I don’t get much MG DNA in this composition except they have florals, musk and oud.

Opening with a massive dose of rooty, earthy, chocolaty, (bitter dark raw not milk,) at times spicy (pink peppercorn likely,) Mongolian Musk the likes we haven’t seen since Chypre Sultan. This is the kind of Musk that will knock you back in your seat and make you nose blind instantly, as your nasal receptors are sent scrambling on high alert.

Spray once, and spray far away from that nose!

Once the onslaught settles, you’re greeted with white powdery florals, sweetened with Mimosa and Honey. You immediately pick up the tenor and the beat of walla patta giving the white florals green stems that twists and turns in the composition.

The floral, musk, oud affair is debonair, regal, uplifting and complex. It is entirely new from Ensar and one has to love Vintage, Powdery, Floral Chypre’s in order to dance with this Khan.

Make no mistake this isn’t your Grandma’s Suitcase Chypre…oh no this is an Oud man’s Chypre with a huge dose of Musk and Oud that pulsates the Florals from top to bottom.

I get massive longevity and projection so go light and let the silani flavoured breezes bring that white floral musk infused bouquet to your nose from a distance 😉

Stay Musky my friends.

—Ryan L / Canada

After reading many many times that brother Ben W say this MGBK is a masterpiece release, and my friend who bought it has mixed feelings with it, i decided to offer him my EO1 Siem Reap as a swap.

Now behold my new MGBK hehe, omg i love it so so much more than EO1 i know it is different genre but yet again this floral musk is just divine. This is Musk Gardenia Ghalia mixed with concentrate musk liquid gold. The green cooling minty gardenia floral and breezy walla patta mix with dry raw primal mongolian musk. the transition is just nothing short of amazing. The musk here is dry smoky cacao like, strong, primal but not those funk or animalic. and it is much satisfying than Tibetan musk.

And this is my first time to experience nose blind after i apply 1 spray under my neck. if you love musc gardenia, if you love musk then this is a musk have…
and now my lovely 3 muskateers line up are unbeatable scent.
Iris Ghalia – Blackcurrant peach tea mouth watering musk

Tibetan Musk – fougere + musk

MGBK – i think gengis khan wanna wear a floral scent, this will definately suit him 101%

UPDATE:

Musc Gardenia Be A Khan edition… elegant ensar signature green lushious juicy and minty gardenia mixed with primal dry cacao raw musk. the ouds used in this blend prevents the whole thing go into the raw heavy musk territory by adding a breezy cool blue feel.

—Edward L / Malaysia

Musk Garden BK edition again today this MG is amazing
I find it the perfect vintage powdery masculine floral. It’s both hard in the opening and soft in the drydown.

There are some fimilar elements but on a whole this composition is completely different. The sirlankan oud changes the profile completely from Borneo adding the green airy salty oceanic tone that serves as the green stems to the white florals.

—Ryan L / Canada

Thick and dense chocolatey Mongolian musk right off the bat with a very good hit of purplish Oud up front, a hint of spices on top of a beatiful floral accord, this is still one of my favorite from the Musc Gardenia series, loved it on day 1, and still love it now.

I’m fortunate to not have any anosmic issue on the Mongolian musk here, this is by far one of the muskiest composition in my collection, even muskier than Musk Yusuf, Tibetan Musk, EO2, and Siber Extreme.

Excellent performance, this is another heavy hitter right next to IG3, some of it got on my undershirt and I could still smell it projecting off of the shirt in laundry basket the next day.

—Ben W / USA

Musc Gardénia Berke Khan (MGBK)

I enjoy wearing this daily and not even try to breakdown what is in it. To my nose, this one carry a lot of floral musk and subtle Gardenia flower.

A nice smooth concoction, non-challenging scent.

Well balance between musc, frangipani, lotus and mimosa.

This is an easy enjoyable type of scent all year round.

—Jack N / USA

If I had the money and this cost 10,000 euros I WOULD HAVE BOUGHT IT. I honestly can’t describe it in words. Language falls short of describing it.

And by God I do not know how to express my gratitude to Mr Ensar and his team for making these extremely rare aromatics available to us, especially in such amazing compositions. I’m totally speechless when I think about the rarity of the compounds and the generosity of the house in pricing.

Thank you Ensar Oud

—Ali / Greece

Musc Gardenia: Berke Khan is a perfume that commands respect from the very first spritz. It’s a bold, unapologetic creation that blends sweetness, florals, and animalic depth into a truly multifaceted experience.

This is a strong fragrance with immense depth.

Be cautious with application, especially at first, as the musk can be overpowering if overapplied. However, once the scent settles, it becomes a creamy, floral-animalic masterpiece with moderate sillage and excellent longevity…

My favorite of all Musc Gardenias

—Thomas W / Germany

Musc Gardénia: Berke Khan

Featured Testimonials…

Musc Gardénia: Berke Khan Edition

Related products