Man Jadda

The Triad

Aged New Guinea agarwood is among the most precious things I work with. You might have seen those painted chips sold in all the Gulf oud shops, chips light as a feather, or those cheap Maroke ouds that smell like birch tar that nobody wants. New Guinea is in a different league from what comes off the island today – the jungles have changed, the trees are younger, the resin is way less dense, if the trees are resinated at all.

What I’m talking about is old stock: dense, jungle-dry, with a coffee-cacao-like depth that collectors find incomparable. And camphor-bright, with the piercing clarity of crushed eucalyptus leaf. A clean, medicinal, subtly oceanic yet very earthy, with a steel-cut incense quality that once smelled cannot be confused with anything else.

Oud I’m ready to buy, but cannot find any more.

Into this – the marine minerality of the island KK oud fused with New Guinea’s coffee-green petrichor – Vietnamese sinensis attacks with its signature zesty, resinous bite, bitter in the way of rare tea or perfectly cured tobacco, slicing through the density of the other two and giving them an orange-peel tenacity that’s crucial to shaping everything else in here…

The Mirror

The opening notes are exciting – and deliberately complex. 

Imagine an accord of myrrh, clove, and rose that has been passed through a prism of an incense-red earthiness colliding with coffee-green petrichor depth from the Koh Kong island and New Guinea ouds. 

At the same time – still all in the opening notes – there’s a distinct orange-peel, almost medicinal bite that comes from the Vietnamese sinensis laced with frankincense, while spikenard’s ancient root-musk and clove’s eugenol sharpness pierce through the waves of oud. Kashan rose and ylang ylang don’t brighten this composition much, but rather add diffusivity that lets all these notes smell louder and casts their silage further, yet also imparts a narcotic indolic creaminess that tames the otherwise sharp, darting top notes.

Slowly, the oud triad becomes louder as the zestiness gives way and they unfold further; the resins, too, take time to show up; Haitian vetiver, enhanced with New Guinea’s petrichor, roots it all to the earth, which along with the spikenard settle into the oud’s green tones slowly, not all at once. By hour six you lift your wrist and everything is still present – the island oud’s mineral red, New Guinea’s earthy myrrh-infused zest, Nha Trang’s sassy bite, the whole spice-resin symphony playing underneath.

This is an unusually bright EO composition. By bright, I don’t mean airy or citrussy – clearly, the bulk of the perfume is composed of dense, resinous aromatics – but bright as in great for summer.  Compared to other EO Monuments, Man Jadda is golden-hued and zesty, with sensual tones that create a profile that’s distinct from any others in the collection. 

While outwardly it may seem like an obvious pick for summer, there’s a secret in the composition…

The calligraphy on this plaque is a mirror composition – it reads identically from left to right and right to left. A technique that requires the calligrapher to compose the phrase so that every stroke, every curve, every weight is balanced against its reflection. The proverb man jadda wajada written not just as language but as geometry.

I could have said nothing about this and let you discover it. That would have been more in keeping with the proverb. But this detail is relevant to the perfume itself because the composition reflects the same geometry. The island oud and the New Guinea are not similar ouds placed side by side; they face each other across the spectrum. One is earthen and red and dry; the other is green and oceanic and medicinal. Neither dominates. And the Vietnamese sinensis holds the center between them, sharp and zesty, the axis around which everything else is balanced. The spices and resins flank both sides. Whatever direction you approach this perfume from – skin chemistry, season, mood – it gives you the same thing back. A mirror.

That’s why a composition this balanced doesn’t belong to any one season. I’d wear this in January as readily as July.

Finds

The New Guinea jungles were there before we tackled the rivers and leeches to reach them. The island crassnas were there before we distilled them. This bottle was a dormant what-if… until you sprayed it.

Koh Kong Island Oud · Vietnamese Oud · Vintage New Guinea Oud · Wild Spikenard · Clove · Nutmeg · Cardamom · Cinnamon · Frankincense · Myrrh · Kashan Rose · Ylang Ylang · Haitian Vetiver · Sandalwood

*Features a limited-edition raw yellow stone cap. No two are alike.

*Each plaque is custom-made. A limited number ships immediately – subsequent orders are fulfilled as each one is completed.