Leather and oud go together like king and crown, and there’s no sweeter spot between the rustic allure of Ensar’s artisanal—often mad—oud world and popular perfumery than this oudilicious addition to the cuir tradition. A rugged aroma that makes you wonder if Hemingway just lit up a Cuban, or if Churchill’s in town.
After 15 fragrant years, I finally took off my jungle jacket for a tie to dive headfirst into my debut spray parfum and create No 1. Since its first release, each iteration has had a unique flavor—still retaining the No 1 profile but showing off a different dimension—as we literally poured all we had of our precious distillations into the perfume.
I approach perfume the way I do oud distillation. That’s why No 1 is composed of the rarest, most expensive ingredients in all of perfumery, including copious amounts of precious ouds.
Not only is this among the highest quality oud fragrances that have ever been produced in spray-format, the entire composition is infused into a high-concentration, genuine raw ambergris tincture instead of just plain ethanol. Similar tinctures of this kind sell for around £400 for 30ml… here, it’s already included. But not just any ambergris…
I’ve literally been called stupid for insisting to use such olfactory gems in a perfume. In fact, most critics and ‘professionally trained’ perfumers advocate using synthetics exclusively. And I see their point. Why sacrifice rare rose and oud instead of synthetics that are 1000 times cheaper? Not to mention—and this is a staple argument—you never have to worry about reproducing the scent! (i.e. it’s scalable, so you can sell a lot more.)
I insist on these insanities because to me, and people like me, there IS a difference. You smell low-grade or lab-made oud (a.k.a. the ‘oud note’) and all you can do is laugh at how it’s being compared to real high-caliber oud. Most can’t even tell, but to any oud novice the difference is red and blue.
No 1 lets you exude wafts of a tobacco-heavy, old-school leather jacket aroma with an unmistakable Don Corleone kiss-my-hand-compagno esteem. Subtle, but not soft, with a base that’s all oud and vintage horse-saddle leather.
The recent buzz around the OG No 1 is partly because many fragheads missed out on it (sold out in 2018) but also because those who stashed away a bottle and smelled it again recently were so blown away by that first edition.
The OG came in Habib’s handworked full-grain Italian calf leather, topped with a square wooden cap, and boasted a fusion of certain ouds that gave it its unique edge.
Well…… how’s this?
Not only does this edition match the OG composition as close as humanly possible, I actually set out to make it even better.
How?
For starters, two of the key aromatics have been upgraded. You’ve now got the Sultan’s own vintage rose otto (dating back to the 80s) drunk on a massive dose of vintage SQ oud.
I chose specific batches of Mytikhina and Indian anthill oud to create a fusion that most resembles the OGs oud profile. Except, the oud component in this edition is even richer – and two decades older!
In this edition as well as the OG, I chose agallocha ouds because of how well their sour spicy warmth goes with No 1’s tobacco-leather profile.
Compared to the OG, though, this edition features objectively better and more mature oud oil…
The result is not only an oudier No 1, but because of the specific ouds used and the more diffusive quality of aged Ta’ifi otto, that leather jacket, cigar suave smells at once more husky and polished/stylish. And it all comes steeped in the late Sultan Qaboos’ own vintage ambergris – the same stones that went into Oud Royale.
TOP
Sultan Qaboos’ Ambergris
Lavender, Rosewood, Siam Wood, Nutmeg, Castoreum
HEART
Sultan Qaboos Vintage Myitkyina Oud
Vintage Ta’ifi Rose, Bulgarian Rose, Juhi Jasmine, Tolu Balsam, Civet
BASE
Anthill Assam Oud, Sri Lankan Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Ethiopian Frankincense
No doubt, No 1 is not your typical Extrait de Parfum. It’s not supposed to be. I wouldn’t dream of topping the master cuirs that came before, nor do I subscribe to modern ‘industry standards’ of how long, how loud, and how far.
This is an indie cuir that’s limited and rare, where I simply wanted to add an OUD-inspired rendition to the legacy of Cuir de Russie et al. and offer perfume lovers the chance to experience just how amazing and exalting a fixative Artisanal Oud can be. In EO No 1, you pass third base to smell Oud & Leather drunk and in love, in a parfum that’s a first in a vibrant cuir heritage that’s been turning top hats and making hearts melt for decades.
Featured Testimonials…
If you imagine how oud, rose and leather could possibly smell together in the highest form of olfactory enjoyment, you will end up with Ensars first spray parfum. I don’t know how many perfumes I have smelled trying to find the best combination between those notes, but I always ended up lingering for something better. There was always something missing, something that only the best pure natural ingredients can accomplish. After finding out about EO I finally can say that I found the highest and best. This Sultani edition is something everyone should have in their collection if you truly love oud and rose. From beginning till the end, you will experience a never-ending unfolding story of true craftsmanship and the dry down is to die for! Thank you, brother Ensar.
Sultani represents a refined iteration of the original, boasting a fresh green and earthy essence that transitions seamlessly into a woody and leathery finish.
UPDATE:
This perfume is an olfactory journey that unfolds with a symphony of lavender and rosewood, leading into the rich embrace of Myitkyina Oud. The heart reveals the opulence of Ta’ifi Rose, Bulgarian Rose, and Juhi Jasmine, creating a floral tapestry. The fragrance reaches its crescendo with a base of Assam Oud, intertwined with notes of tobacco, vanilla, and oakmoss, resulting in a sophisticated and captivating blend that leaves a lasting impression of timeless elegance and allure.
…I do love it! I took some time and I can’t say why but geeeeeez. I had it for about 2 months and I just let it sit after trying it and finding it wasn’t what I was expecting. Last night I decided to throw one spray on and boooooooooom. That leather and oud was hitting!!! I was like “yeaaaa now that’s more like it” about 30mins pass and it calmed down and the softer sweeter florals start showing off and I said “oh yeaaaaa now this…yeaaaaaaa”…
EO1 Sultani VS EO1 OG
Long review warning
EO1 is and will always be my personal favorite from Ensar Oud. I admit I haven’t tried a whole lot from Ensars work; but the ones I own are amazing in their own standing. Note: this is my first Ensar with JA or oud sultani in it, and I haven’t tried any other EO1 releases. For some of y’all the below review may not be new information
Synopsis: EO1 sultani is a much more polished version of the EO1 OG pure Parfum. There are noticeable differences, yet Sultani converges to the same EO1 DNA that we all know and love.
It almost feels like the OG morphed into a more complex and multi-dimensional release in Sultani.
Side-by-Side Comparison: the opening of Sultani is noticeably different. It has an minty-green and earthy vibe to it, where as in the OG I immediately detect the delectable roses. The sweetness in the OG has been replaced with green-earthy vibes.
As it starts to settle down the OG brings the soft leather to the mix. This is the main EO1 DNA that I fell in love with. In sultani the leather feels more spicy. And as it gets to the dry down, the oud in OG feels lighter and newer. The oud in sultani feels aged, and mature. To give an analogy it’s almost like smelling a glass of red wine that was bottled on day 1 vs smelling a wine that has aged for years. The oud in sultani is bold, it’s heavy. As time passes the dry down in both converge to the same point but sultani takes a bold approach to it.
Conclusion:
If you are a collector, this definitely deserves a place in your collection. If you are new to EO1 and never had the opportunity to try it, then definitely try it. I just wish Ensar team would have made smaller sizes so more folks could try this bold release.
I just got my order today !I am an oud and musk lover and especially artisanal perfumes.
I came across Ensar Oud through YouTube as well through Instagram. This is my first fragrance from EO collection and it will not be the last one.
I ordered EO 1: Sultani, the scent is out of this world really amazing it is definitely high quality !
I received also some samples and there is 1 particular which catches my nose and that’s Homeros really classy scent.
I want to thank you for your exceptional customer service. I am in love with EO1 Sultani and the samples are AMAZING! I can’t wait to try more from Ensar. I sprayed myself before work and I drove all the way home on break just to spray myself again – and I cannot stop smelling myself. I couldn’t be more satisfied, the scent is exactly as described but even better, so smooth and rich with just the right touch of spice. This oud and this ambergris are pure splendor. I hope to get a review of this up on YouTube within the next couple weeks. I have nothing but praise, this is simply perfection.