Black Gris: Obsidian – Running Low

I’ve lost count of how many times people have asked me to check their ‘amber’ attars.

People find out about what ambergris actually is (and what it’s worth) and realize that they may have a bottle of ‘floating gold’ and are keen to confirm their unexpected treasure.

Nine out of ten times I uncap their bottles only to, once again, find myself having to explain that what they have is “Indian Amber” – which has nothing to do with ambergris.

The same confusion surrounds mainstream “amber” perfumes and the so-called amber accords.

That ambergris, like oud, can cost more than gold (per ounce) obviously begs the question – what is it about whale vomit that makes it so precious?

The marvel of it alone gives it value, if you ask me. But then there’s the fact that when you smell raw ambergris, like with raw musk, ‘perfume’ doesn’t come to mind. Scents that range from urinal to downright fecal (depending on how fresh) to salty stone, or just… meh, what’s the big deal? don’t exactly convince you to track down more of it… and pay a small fortune when you do!

So, why is it that once you’ve smelled genuine ambergris-infused perfumes, you get it? Why is it that once you’ve compared a fragrance with and without ambergris, you can’t go back to not choosing the ambergris version? Why is a $45,000+/kg ingredient not just a staple, but a must in EO perfumes?

If you’re reading this, you probably already know. Ambergris is out of this world. That animalic, stoney, urinal, or whatever scent it reminds you of when smelled raw becomes transmuted entirely when used the right way. 

(Even as soon as musk goes into ethanol, the scent becomes more tame with a distinct sweetness you don’t smell in the raw grains.)  

While we’ve done a series of ambergris-centered frags (most notably Ottoman Ambergris, Jamaican Ambergris), A-gris is central to many compositions – I actually consider No 1 a signature ambergris perfume. While it’s all about oud and leather, it’s exactly the oud-leather frag it is because of ambergris! 

Black Gris, as you may have guessed, lets you explore black ambergris in more depth… and it’s one of those perfumes you’ll be exploring for a long time to come.

Before I get to why that is, what’s with black ambergris? Is it just marketing? Maybe you’ve heard that white ambergris is the best, so does that mean this is a lesser perfume? 

Smell Black Gris and you’d be hit with the thought of an oak barrel stuffed with tobacco leaves. A herbaceous undertone, as if that oak barrel was dragged through freshly plowed earth. Yet layering these chords is a delectably saccharine, almost balmy aroma…

Why wasn’t your first impression: Ah, ambergris!?
 

Notice the squid beaks in the pictures? Ambergris is partly formed to help sperm whales digest these indigestible beaks.

Apparently only about 1% of sperm whales produce ambergris, and I don’t know how accurately scientists can tell how long a piece had been floating on the ocean surface, baking under the sun. It could have been decades.   

The ambergris in this brew, however, isn’t just any. It’s already been out of the ocean for at least several decades. As you learn more about ambergris, you’d discover that there’s some debate about fresh vs. aged ambergris. Despite that, most experienced perfumers will point out that fresh ambergris smell…… proper foul, and that the pleasant, musky, oceanic, salty aroma recognized in good ambergris comes with, like oud… age.

And while white ambergris does fetch a higher price in the market, the market doesn’t always dictate what’s better. 

Many, including myself, prefer the scent of black ambergris. That earthy salty sweet fragrance is even more pronounced in black amber – and doubly so in aged black amber… the kind that forms the backbone of this perfume. 

Black Gris is one of the more elaborate EO compositions. The profile aims to both employ ambergris – as a fixative and enhancer – but also to, not retain, but accentuate black ambergris’ inherent scent. 

A subtle fusion of nutmeg and pepper, clove, patchouli, and thyme are amber-fied as the chord gives you that tobacco-filled oak barrel aroma. Not something you’d expect! That’s the magic of ambergris at work, my friend.

The top notes contain what should be sharp, fresh notes of mandarin and yuzu and frankincense, while the heart is rich with rose, frangipani, and orange blossom – but again…… do you smell any of those distinctly? Or do you smell top and heart notes you’ve never smelled because ambergris morphed those flowers and resins and citruses and birthed a new scent?

That’s why Black Gris will keep your nose busy – not only because the composition itself is highly complex, but because much of that complexity comes layered in the unknown; scents you’ve likely never encountered because they have never existed before.

…Because you’ve simply never had the chance to smell what long-aged black ambergris does to incense-grade Sri Lankan gyrinops; to Papuan gyrinops; to a special Malaysian oud…

While the Sri Lankan oud to play with oceanic facet of ambergris, Papuan oud to play on amber’s earthiness, you’ve also now got a rare batch of wild, aged Malysian oud to play on the black of the gris.

Obsidian has been aged for over 15 years. Time has reduced volatility and harsh edges, yielding a profile that’s smooth and stable, with a dark resinous body and a restrained mineral-saline undertone.

In Black Gris, Obsidian was selected for its ability to integrate with long-aged black ambergris. Rather than adding sweetness or overt animalic notes, it deepens ambergris’ salty-musky profile and reinforces the tobacco-oak and earthy facets of the composition, preventing diffusion from becoming light or fragmented.

This is not an oud chosen to stand out on its own. It was chosen because its age allows it to merge cleanly with aged black ambergris, creating a unified scent profile that could not be achieved with younger, less expressive ouds. Obsidian provides vintage depth, cohesion, and persistence – central to the character of Black Gris.

If you love Jamaican Ambergris and/or Ottoman Ambergris, Black Gris adds to your repertoire of gris frags. If you’re curious or have never tried a proper ambergris perfume, Black Gris may throw you into the deep end… but sometimes that’s exactly where you’d want to start! 

• Black Gris is not eligible for discounts or promotional gifts.
• Plaques are custom-made. Your order will ship as soon as your plaque is completed.

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